Understanding Hallmarks: What the Stamps in Your Jewellery Really Mean

What is a hallmark?

A hallmark is an official stamp applied to precious metal items to confirm the metal’s fineness (purity). In many markets—particularly the UK—hallmarking is a long-established system designed to protect consumers and provide confidence in what is being purchased or worn.

A hallmark is not the same as a brand mark or maker’s mark. It is primarily about metal purity verification, though it often includes additional identifiers.

Origins of hallmarking and the UK assay offices (past and present)

Hallmarking in the UK has its roots in medieval consumer protection. The system developed to prevent fraud in precious metals and to ensure gold and silver items met agreed standards, with hallmarking in England commonly traced to reforms formalised around 1300 and the long-standing role of London’s Goldsmiths’ Company in testing and marking wares.

Today, the UK’s hallmarking framework is overseen by the British Hallmarking Council and delivered through four operating assay offices: London, Birmingham, Sheffield, and Edinburgh. Historically, a number of additional assay offices operated around the country, reflecting regional trade and manufacturing centres. These included Chester (closed 1962) and Glasgow (closed 1964), along with offices in Exeter, Newcastle, and York (which closed in the 19th century).

What do jewellery hallmarks usually tell you?

While hallmark formats vary by country and by piece, the information typically falls into these categories:

Metal fineness (purity)
This is the most important element. Examples include:

• 18ct gold (commonly stamped as 750)
• 14ct gold (commonly stamped as 585)
• Platinum (commonly stamped as 950)

Assay office / testing authority
This indicates where the piece was tested and hallmarked.

Maker’s or sponsor’s mark
Usually a registered mark identifying the company responsible for submitting the piece for hallmarking.

Date letter
Some hallmarking systems include a date letter. Not all pieces carry one, and formats depend on the assay office and period.

Because the marks are small, they can be faint, partially worn, or placed in areas that are hard to see—particularly on older pieces.

Where to find hallmarks on jewellery

Hallmarks are usually placed where they are discreet but practical:

• Rings: inside the shank
• Bracelets: on the clasp or a plaque near the clasp
• Necklaces/Chains: on the clasp tag or end fitting
• Earrings: on the post, clip fitting, or back
• Pendants: on the bail (or a small tag)

If you can’t find a hallmark, it doesn’t automatically mean there isn’t one—some are extremely worn, hidden by design, or placed on removable components.

Laser hallmarks vs hallmarks: what’s the difference?

A hallmark is an official fineness mark applied under a recognised hallmarking system to confirm precious metal purity. Traditionally, hallmarks were struck into the metal with a punch, leaving a small indented stamp. Many pieces still carry these struck marks, which can soften over time through wear and repeated polishing.

Some modern pieces may also feature laser-inscribed hallmarks, where the hallmark is etched onto the surface rather than punched in. A laser inscription is typically cleaner and more precise, but it is also generally shallower than a struck stamp.

It’s important to distinguish these from non-hallmark laser markings (such as workshop references, brand identifiers, or service notes). These are not official purity marks and, because they sit very close to the surface, they can polish out very easily during refinishing.

Why do hallmarks sometimes look worn, incomplete, or “different”?

There are several common reasons:

• Everyday wear: rings are especially prone to hallmark wear because the marks sit inside the shank where friction is constant.
• Polishing over years: repeated refinishing can soften marks.
• Curved surfaces: hallmarks struck on curved metal can look slightly distorted.
• Design constraints: small pieces simply have less space for a clean strike.

A hallmark that looks faint is not automatically a red flag; it often reflects normal wear and finishing.

Hallmarks and repairs: do repairs need re-hallmarking?

This is one of the most common questions we hear—especially when a ring has had structural work.

In everyday practice, repairs are treated differently from manufacturing a new piece, and many repair operations do not typically require re-hallmarking. This commonly includes repair work such as shank replacement or shank rebuilds, provided the work is considered a repair to an existing item rather than the creation of a new article.

When to have a hallmark checked

Bring a piece in if:

• you can’t locate the hallmark and want confirmation of metal type
• the marks are worn and you’re unsure what they indicate
• you’re considering remodelling or significant repair work
• you’re insuring jewellery and need accurate metal identification

A quick in-person review can often clarify what you’re looking at and what it means for care, valuation, and repairs.

If you’d like help identifying hallmarks—or you have a piece that needs assessment for repair, resizing, or restoration—our team will be pleased to advise. Understanding the stamps in your jewellery is a small detail that can provide genuine confidence in what you own.